觀點【台語世界/錄音】阿媽ê菜頭粿
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【台語世界/錄音】阿媽ê菜頭粿

阮阿媽手藝真厲害,無論是煮飯炒菜,抑是做點心,ta̍k項攏真好食。Ta̍k年ê過年過節真chē親情朋友攏會來阮兜,為tio̍h會使食tio̍h伊煮ê物件,其中上有名ê是菜頭粿。講tio̍h伊ê菜頭粿是「頂港有名聲,下港上出名」!上無半冬前tio̍h愛吩咐,拜托伊來做,才食會tio̍h。雖罔伊定定做kah無暝無日,thiám kah beh死, m̄-koh見若聽著人ê呵咾,伊就歡喜kah睏bōe去。

阿媽ê粿是用灶hiâⁿ柴tau̍h-tau̍h-á炊–出-來ê,伊上費氣ê代誌是愛顧火。火若siuⁿ猛,會臭火焦;若siuⁿ細pha,會炊bōe熟。Só͘-pái人愛連sòa幾若點鐘顧tī hia,火才bōe hoa-hoa—khì。猶koh愛穩定火勢。另外,mā ài chia̍p-chia̍p kā菜頭米漿lā-lā leh,予伊會齊勻才會好食。Tī beh過年過節ê時陣,定定ài接sòa幾nā禮拜無天無眠ê hiâⁿ火炊粿。有時陣柴無夠,透暝暗眠摸去chhōe柴,無閒kah強欲無頭神去。我看阿媽彼段時間雄雄老beh十歲,人mā曲痀落去,ká-ná beh覆佇塗跤兜。所以我kap小弟ê工課就是幫阿媽「輪暗班」,hō͘伊會使加減睏寡,才bōe遐thiám。M̄-koh伊往往bōe放心,規暝起來幾nā擺,雖罔穡頭真艱苦,卻是阮媽孫á上親近ê時陣,也是我上數念ê日子。

我有問阿媽粿ài按怎炊才會好食,伊講全部ê材料攏ài真材實料、ài有夠鮮、ài無計較有趁錢無,我kan-ta beh hō͘逐家食鮮koh好食ê物件。我看阿媽kā米洗kah足清氣koh浸tī水底,mā買上鮮、上媠ê菜頭。經過石磨機磨出來ê米漿若牛奶ko-ko-ko,mî-mî ê米芳凊ùi鼻來,出來ê菜頭若白雪,pe̍h-phau-phau 、iù-mī-mī,,規間攏充滿菜頭芳,kā全部ê材料khǹg入去籠床,用火tau̍h-tau̍h-á炊。我有問阿媽是按怎菜頭粿比有khiàn芳ê鹹粿賣較好leh?伊講因為這才會使真正食tio̍h純粹菜頭ê甜,kap米ê芳味,無siuⁿ chē 添加物,是真正食物ê滋味,hām做人仝款,愈單純愈好。

阮兜蹛佇庄跤彎彎斡斡ê巷仔底,真濟人kā阿媽哼阮厝足歹chhōe,結果受苦ê是我,soah變chò我ài出去店仔頭擺擔賣粿。細漢時ê我真pì-sù,看著人這ni̍h濟,歹勢kah攏m̄敢夯頭看人,mā毋敢喝咻,kan-na提一本武俠小說坐tī遠遠ê所在,頭犁犁一直看,有人來問才勉強講話。到上尾人客mā是定定chhōe無所在thang買。阿媽kā我講「歹勢,家已想ê。」伊因為我ê無路用,sòa氣身ló͘命。

「花無百日紅,人無千日好」這句話無適合用tī阮阿媽身上,因為伊ê身體無病無疼,勇健若像牛leh,腳手mā chiâⁿ猛掠,敢若歲月不曾tī伊ê身軀留下啥物。阿媽定定問我敢beh學炊粿,我kā你教,我回講「無問題啊,等我較閒leh就來學」,想袂到十幾冬就按呢過啊,猶原猶袂開始學。民國107年ê清明節,我beh離開舊厝出去?迌,伊交代我粿無食了ài冰ô͘,beh食ê時陣khah kā餾餾leh較好食。想bōe到這是阮兩人ê上尾一句話,無偌久我接著小弟ê電話,講阿媽人雄雄無爽快,醫生講無啥樂觀,我趕緊對高雄chôn–轉-去,猶原bōe赴見伊最後一面,伊已經過往ah!我是按怎mā m̄敢相信、無法度接受,就按呢阿媽ê工夫就失傳lah!我深深感受寶貴ê傳統文藝愛緊學習kap保存,m̄-thang等失去才來後悔tō bōe-hù ah,阿媽ê粿是按呢、台語文化mā是按呢。

台灣字(白話字)版

Goán a-má chhiú-gē chin lī-hāi. Bô lūn sī chú pn̄g chhá-chhài, ia̍h-sī chòe tiám-sim, ta̍k-hāng lóng chin hó-chia̍h. Ta̍k-nî ê kòe-nî kòe-cheh chin chē chhin-chiâⁿ pêng-iú lóng ē lâi goán tau. Ūi-tio̍h ē-sái chia̍h i chú ê mi̍h-kiāⁿ! Kî-tiong siōng ū miâ ê sī chhài-thâu-kóe. Kóng-tio̍h i ê chhài-thâu kóe, sī “ téng-káng ū miâ-siaⁿ, ē-káng siōng chhut-miâ”! Siōng bô pòaⁿ-tang chêng tio̍h ài hoan-hù, pài-thok i lâi chòe, chiah chia̍h ē tio̍h. Sui-bóng i tiāⁿ-tiāⁿ chòe kah bô mî bô ji̍t, thiám kah beh sí; m̄-koh kiàn-nā thiaⁿ tio̍h lâng ê o-ló, i tio̍h hoaⁿ-hí kah khùn bōe khì.

A-má ê kóe sī iōng chàu hiâⁿ chhâ tau̍h-tau̍h-á chhoe–chhut lâi ê. I siōng hùi-khì ê tāi-chì sī ài kò͘ hóe. Hóe nā siuⁿ mé, ē chhàu hóe ta; nā siuⁿ sè pha, ē chhoe bōe se̍k. Só͘-pái, lâng ài liân-sòa kúi-nā tiám-cheng kò͘ tī hia, hóe chiah bōe hoa-hoa–khì. Iáu koh ài ún-tēng hóe-sè. Lēng-gōa, mā-ài chia̍p-chia̍p kā chhài-thâu bí-chiūⁿ lā-lā leh, hō͘ i chiâu-ûn, chiah ē hó-chia̍h. Tī beh kòe-nî kòe-cheh ê sî-chūn, tiāⁿ-tiāⁿ ài chiap-sòa kúi-nā lé-pài bô thiⁿ bô mê ê hiâⁿ-hóe chhoe-kóe. Ū-sî chhâ bô-kàu, thàu-mê àm-bîn-bong khì chhōe chhâ, bô-êng kah kiōng-beh bô thâu-sîn khì. Góa khòaⁿ a-má hit tōaⁿ sî-kan hiông-hiông lāu beh cha̍p-hòe, lâng mā khiau-ku lo̍h-khì, kán-ná beh phak tī thô͘-kha tau. Só͘-í góa kah sió-tī ê kong-khò chiū-sī pang a-má“lûn àm-pan”. Hō͘ i ē-sái ke-kiám khùn–kóa, chiah bē hiah thiám. M̄-koh i óng-óng bōe hòng-sim, kui-mê khí-lâi kúi-nā pái. Sui-bóng sit-thâu chiâⁿ kan-khó, khiok-sī goán má-sun-á siōng chhin-kīn ê sî-chūn, iā-sī góa siōng siàu-liām ê ji̍t-chí.

Góa ū mn̄g a-má kóe ài án-chóaⁿ chhoe chiah ē hó chia̍h. I kóng choân-pō͘ ê châi-liāu lóng-ài chin-châi si̍t-liāu, ài ū kàu chhiⁿ, bô kè-kàu ū thàn-chîⁿ bô. Góa kan-na beh hō͘ ta̍k-ke chia̍h chhiⁿ–ê, hó-chia̍h–ê mi̍h-kiāⁿ. Góa khòaⁿ a-má kā bí sé kah chiok chheng-khì. Koh chìm leh chúi té. Mā bé siōng chhiⁿ, siōng súi ê chhài-thâu, Keng-kòe chio̍h-bôa-ki bôa–chhut-lâi ê bí-chiuⁿ ná gû-leng, ko-ko-ko, mî-mî ê bí-phang chhèng ùi phiⁿ lâi. Chhut–lâi ê chhài-thâu ná pe̍h soat, pe̍h-phau-phau iù-mī-mī, kui-keng lóng chhiong-boán chhài-thâu phang. Kā choân-pō͘ ê châi-liāu khǹg ji̍p khì lâng-sn̂g, iōng hóe tau̍h-tau̍h chhoe. Góa ū mn̄g a-má sī án-chóaⁿ chhài-thâu kóe pí ū khiàn-phang ê kiâm-kóe bē khah hó leh? I kóng in-ūi che chiah ē-sái chin-chiàⁿ chia̍h tio̍h chhài-thâu ê tiⁿ kap bí ê phang-bī. Bô siuⁿ chē thiⁿ-ka bu̍t, sī chin-chiàⁿ si̍t-bu̍t ê chu-bī; hâm chòe-lâng kāng-khoán, lú tan-sûn lú hó.

Goán tau tòa tī chng-kha oan-oan oat-oat ê hāng-á té. Chiâⁿ chē lâng kā a-má haiⁿ goán chhù pháiⁿ chhōe. Kiat-kó siū-khó͘ ê sī góa, soah piàn-chò góa ài chhut-khì tiàm-á-thâu pâi tàⁿ bē kóe. Sè-hàn sî ê góa chin pì-sù, khòaⁿ tio̍h lâng chiah-ni̍h chē, phái-sè kah lóng m̄-káⁿ giâ thâu khòaⁿ lâng; mā m̄-káⁿ hoah hiu. Kan-na the̍h chi̍t pún bú-kiap sió-soat chē tī hn̄g-hn̄g ê só͘-chāi, thâu lê lê it-ti̍t khòaⁿ. Ū lâng lâi mn̄g, chiah bián-kióng kóng-ōe. Kàu siōng-bóe lâng-kheh mā sī chhōe bô só͘-chāi thang bé. A-má kā góa kóng “phái-sè, ka-tī siūⁿ ê”. I in-ūi góa ê bô lō͘ iōng, sòa khì-sin ló͘-miā.

“Hoe bô peh ji̍t âng, lâng bô chhian ji̍t hó” chit kù ōe bô sek-ha̍p iōng tī goán a-má sin-siōng. In-ūi i ê sin-thé bô pēⁿ bô thiàⁿ ióng kiāⁿ ká-ná chhiūⁿ gû leh. Kha-chhiú mā chiâⁿ mé-lia̍h, kán-ná sòe-goa̍t m̄-bat tī i ê sin-khu lâu-hā siáⁿ-mi̍h. A-má tiāⁿ-tiāⁿ mn̄g góa kám beh o̍h chhoe-kóe, góa kā lí kà. Góa hôe kóng, “Bô būn- tê ah, tán góa khah êng leh tō lâi o̍h.” Siuⁿ bē kàu cha̍p kúi tang tō án-ne kòe ah, iû goân iáu bē khai-sí o̍h. Bîn-kok 107 nî ê chheng-bêng-cheh, góa beh lī-khui kū chhù khì chhit-thô. I kau-tài góa kóe chia̍h bô liáu ài peng ô͘, beh chia̍h ê sî-chūn koh kā liū liū leh khah hó chia̍h. Siūⁿ bē kàu chē sī goán nn̄g lâng ê siōng bóe chit kù ōe! Bô jōa kú góa chiap tio̍h sió-tī ê tiān-ōe, kóng a-má lâng bô sóng-khoài; i-seng kóng bô siáⁿ lo̍k-koan. Góa kóaⁿ-kín ùi Ko-hiông chông–tńg-khì. Iû-goân bōe-hù kìⁿ i chòe-āu chi̍t bīn. I í-keng kòe-óng ah! Góa sī án-chóaⁿ mā m̄-káⁿ siong-sìn, bô hoat tō͘ chiap-siū. Chū án-ne a-má ê kang-hu tō sit-thoân lah! Góa chhim chhim kám-siū pó-kùi ê thoân-thóng bûn-gē ài kín ha̍k-si̍p kah pó-chûn, m̄-thang tán sit-khì liáu-āu chiah lâi hiō-hóe tō bē-hù ah. A-má ê kóe sī án-ne, Tâi-gí bûn-hòa mā-sī án-ne.
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